Hand Printing Process, Inlay Handicrafts

The discovery of dyed cotton fabric dating back to the Indus Valley civilization shows that the art of dying with the use of mordant's was well known to the Indian dyers 5,000 years ago. This form of dying which reveals a mastery in the chemistry of dying was responsible for making India famous all over the world for its dyed and printed fabrics.

Recent excavations of the Red Sea ports have also brought out a greater range of printed textiles. These date back to 800 AD. Their technique and design point to a western Indian origin. The printing industry has its important centres all over India. The most important cotton printing centres that follow the traditional technique of printing are found in the desert belt. The important centres of hand printing in Rajasthan are Jaipur, Sanganer, Bagroo, Pali and Barmer.

Various printing techniques have been developed including, direct printing, resist printing, and screen-printing. Direct printing is practiced all over India where a bleached cotton or silk fabric is printed with the help of wooden blocks, with beautifully carved designs. But first the outline block is printed, after which the blocks for filling in the colors are to be utilized. If the background is to be a light color, the cloth is dyed after the printing has been completed. Normally, three to four colors are used.

In the resist technique, a paste made up of different material is used over areas to be printed which are required to resist the dye. The fabric is then immersed in the dye bath. In some cases, clay mixed with resin is used for printing areas which have to be protected from the dye; in others hot wax is used. After dying, the fabric is washed in flowing water or in hot water to melt the wax. Some of the dark color of the background material flows on the protected area, thus creating a soft tonal effect.

The batik technique is a development from this form of resist printing. Here the fabric is painted with molten wax and then dyed in cold dyes after which the cloth is washed in hot water. This results in the melting of the wax and emergence of the patterned cloth. The effect of the resist technique in printing is soft and subdued and the outlines are not so clearly defined as in the case of the painted batik.

Agra is most famous for inlay work, drawing inspiration from the Taj Mahal. The craftsmen of Agra carry on the tradition of inlay work, striving to match the perfection of the Taj. The designs are mostly in foliage or floral, intertwined with geometrical patterns. Though real precious stones were used at one point of time, today semi-precious or fine colored stones are used.

A wide selection of items in mosaic marble is available, like artistic jewelry, trinkets, powder boxes, trays, and tableware like plates, bowls, glasses etc. Vrindavan, in Uttar Pradesh produces items in alabaster. These delicate articles are now rare, and are being replaced by soft stone. Inlaying of light metal on dark metal is technically known as damascening. Traditionally it is called 'koftgari'.

In earlier times the technique was used to ornament articles like armours, swords, etc. In this process iron or steel of the required size is heated, and slightly hammered into flat surfaces on which grooves are made. A Lac base is then fixed, on which designs are drawn with a chisel. Minute bits of gold or silver threads are then hammered into them. Finally the piece is heated and rubbed with lime-juice, sand and soap-nut to smoothen the surface. It is rubbed again with black paint to give it a glossy effect. Wide ranges of ornamental objects are produced through this process.

Ivory is used in architectural decoration. The wooden doors of the Bikaner palace are ornamented with ivory work. The doors of the Amber palace in Jaipur, the exquisite work of the Mysore palace doors and the doors of the Golden Temple at Amritsar, are breath- taking examples of this work. Miniature carving works of idols for worship too are done.